Focus can be thought of in two general ways in photography. There is the idea of focusing our creativity and our energy into making a great photograph and there is the physical act of focusing the camera. Both of these concepts are intimately linked and this article is going to explore just how that relationship works. Specifically I am going to address focus in wildlife and bird photography, but it can be applied to any type of photography.
I cannot count how many times I see a great shot of a bird out on Flickr, and as I am admiring it I then realize that the most critical part of the image is out of focus. In wildlife photography this is generally the eye of the critter. The eye simply must be in focus.  I see focus problems with birds on a stick, birds flying, and birds vocalizing. It is a common mistake that can be easily avoided by knowing where to focus and then concentrating or "focusing" your eye and the focus point on the spot where you want the focus to fall.  Don't be so overjoyed with the subject that you forget your viewer.
Is it about you or the viewer?
As a photographer and an artist, I am constantly in a struggle between shooting a piece for me, or shooting a piece for the viewer or buyer.  In reality, in my case, I am usually shooting for both myself and the end viewer.  Let's be honest, if everyone was shooting for themselves and themselves alone, they wouldn't post it all over social media for likes, faves, thumbs ups or whatever other  type of encouraging gesture is available by your favorite social media outlet.  So we have established that the viewer is the target audience of most of our work, but why do we see so many awesome shots with a focus problem?
Why did you post the out of focus image?
Perhaps this question gets more into the psychological aspects of what it means to be a photographer, but I am going to look at this with logic, reasoning and experience.  It all starts on the day of the shoot.  We spend hours planning our next photo shoot.  We look on the internet at Google and Google Maps results, and pour over page upon page of the ramblings of other photographers and their photographs.  We plan to arrive at our location and spend the entire day shooting.  
The process begins when first, we wake up at 5:00 am, grab a shower, load the gear in the car and speed off down the road. After arriving at the location we quietly move into position, get set up and wait.  We wait for the perfect light, the perfect expression on the animal and the peak of action.  We have built up a fury of expectation that we will get the shot and it will be a good one.  
As we quietly wait in our blind or hidden in the woods, we see a hawk soaring above the meadow just as we had envisioned.  Quickly we raise the camera to our eyes,  line up the hawk in the focus point group and being firing off shots. It all happened so quickly and the thought keeps entering your mind, "Did I get the shot?"  We continue our waiting and it goes on for hours, but the hawk never reappears.  
Later that night, we get home and load our images into our favorite post processing software.  We quickly go through each image and then we find one.  "It isn't too bad. It's in focus", we say to ourselves.  We so desperately want the time and energy we spent on the trip to have meaning and produce a photo that we lie to ourselves.  We tell ourselves it is good enough.  Folks, if you are telling yourself that, then you may never get there! None of us will! There is no "good enough."
 Before you get too upset with what I just said,  I do want to say that everyone out there is at a different part of the learning path including myself and so I don't want to sound like I am preaching here, but there is a point where you must accept that you missed the shot.  You did your best, but it just didn't happen and there is absolutely nothing wrong with that.  However, it is wrong to tell yourself that you nailed it when you really know deep down that you didn't.  I have to be honest with you.  I am a terrible birds in flight photographer.  Once in a while I nail one but there are many times I go home and erase every image I took.  Don't force it.  Learn and keep practicing.  I'd rather post 3 good birds in flight shots a year than 20 bad ones.
Is it Lack of Education?
Another problem with people posting images out of focus might just be lack of education.  Ask yourself what the subject is and how can I best use focus to accentuate the subject.  If it is an animal then compose the shot and get that eye in focus.  If it is a deep scenic then learn to use hyperfocal distance and focus on a foreground object letting depth of field carry the rest of the focus.  Learn your craft and keep at it.
Conclusion
In the end have fun with your photography and stay focused on focus.  Make it part of your routine and it will start to become automatic.  The more automatic it becomes, the more you can concentrate on the peak action and the gesturing of the animal. I also want to say that when I say "in focus" I mean critical focus. I mean at 100% zoom the image is in focus.  Why does this matter?  Because there is so much competition out there, and the expectations have risen dramatically as cameras and monitors improve.  Slight imperfections are only magnified more.  I also want to say that I have been down the road of denial and being satisfied with mediocrity, and I am learning to overcome it and so I thought I would pass along what I am learning.  What will take you from mediocre photographer to a focused photographer?
Below are two critically sharp images.  You should see how many I rejected from each of these shoots.  What if I had focused on the hummers wing?  At that range the depth of field would not extend to the eye.  What if I had focused on the vulture's shoulder?  Again, the eye would be out of focus.  If the head and eye are in focus, the viewer thinks everything is in focus.



A friend of mine recently offered to let me use the EF Canon 70-200 f4L on an upcoming two day benefit photography event that I was attending so I thought I would take him up on his offer and share my thoughts on this lens. The version I borrowed is the imaged stabilized version but it also comes in a non-stabilized version for the budget minded photographer. I will conclude the review with images taken from the event so you can see the image quality for yourself in a real world shooting situation.


Build Quality
As one would expect from a high quality luxury (L) series lens the build quality is outstanding. The lens is constructed of aluminum and is sealed against rain and dust in the IS version. The focus and zoom rings are positioned well and are made of a rugged rubber coating. Arguably one of the best benefits comes from the fact that although a rugged lens, the weight comes in at only 1.68lbs making it ideal for hand holding for long periods of time. The length and width of the lens barrel is comparable to other lenses in this focal range.
Specifications
  • Focal Length:  70-200mm zoom
  • Aperature: f4 (constant)
  • Lens Construction: 20 elements in 15 groups
  • Focus Adjustment: Auto-focus with full time manual focus
  • Filter Size:  67mm
  • MSRP:  $1,299.00 US
  • Street Price New:  $1,099.00 US (with rebate)
  • Used Price:  $800.00-$1,000.00 US  (if you are going to pay this much, just buy it new with the rebate)
Features
  • 3-4 Stop Image Stabilizer:   depending on when the model was created one should be able to get up to 4 stops of stabilization useful in low light situations. 
  • Two Image Stabilizer Modes:  Mode 1 is designed to stabilize the both the x and y axis for full image stabilization while mode 2 is designed to be used while panning to prevent vertical camera shake.
  • Full Time Manual Focus:  this is a really nice feature that most modern "pro" lenses implement.  This simply means that you can always use manual focus even if your lens is switched to auto-focus.  I use this to great effect when shooting wildlife from a blind.  If I had to reach over and switch to manual focus there is a good chance I would miss the shot because of the motion an noise of the switch.  
  • Weather Sealing:  This lens is sealed against dust and rain which is mostly just comfort of mind when shooting in potentially harsh conditions.  This has never been a deal breaker for me when deciding to purchase a lens.  If it is pouring rain, I am generally hiding under a tree somewhere or in the car.  Instead of buying weather-proof lenses,  I weather-proof my backpack.
On to the Real World - How does this lens perform in a controlled field environment?
In the "field" this lens did not disappoint me, and perhaps one of the greatest attributes of this lens is the weight.  Coming in at 1.68 lbs it is a joy to hold for long periods of time as opposed to it's faster cousin the 70-200 2.8. If a compact light design is what you are looking for in a medium telephoto then look no further than this beauty.  I spoke with a woman photographer at this event who said she really missed the weight difference in her 70-200 f4.  She was using the 2.8 version and found it to be impractical for hand holding long periods of time.
Sharpness
As one would expect from Canon "L" series lenses, the sharpness is quite unbelievable, even at f4.  In my opinion there is no reason to stop this lens down to f8 unless you need to do so for artistic reasons. I took photographs ranging from hand held to tripod stabilized and tripod stabilized with image stabilization engaged. I found very little difference in the image quality in any of those scenarios.  I did also shoot a couple different species with my Kenko 1.4x TC attached and I was surprised to see only a little image degradation in sharpness and contrast.  Here is an example of the sharpness of this lens at f4 under field conditions:


The above image of the screech owl was taken in fairly dark conditions with a tripod, at an aperture of  f4, a shutter speed of 1/125, an ISO of 1200 and a focal length of 200mm.  I applied standard sharpening in Lightroom and a small amount of noise reduction during post processing. Since it is recommended by other photographers such as Art Morris, I Ieft the IS engaged.  As you can see the image is sharp and has great contrast and color. Bokeh is also pleasing and can be seen off to the left of the frame. Honestly for a lens of this caliber I did not expect poor results, but it is nice to confirm this in the field. 
Autofocus
I didn't have a great deal of subjects on which to test auto-focus but even birds perching required constant refocusing of the lens due to the bird changing its body and head position. I used ai servo mode on my 7D because of the constantly changing position of the bird.  The auto-focus was much faster than my Tamron 70-300 SP VC which is a lens of mine I have written about in the past.  I also found it to be a tad more reliable and seemed to lock in focus with better accuracy overall. I also did tests where I focused on the background and then the bird's head to see how fast it snapped back and it was extremely fast.  I don't have specific timings but I was more than happy with results.
Image Stabilization
Does image stabilization really matter?  I use image stabilization on my Tamron and I used it with this lens as well and I find it to be useful in stopping the shake caused by both hand holding and hand holding it on the tripod.  If I didn't have it, could I still get great pictures?  Yes, of course.  Image stabilization is just another tool to get your "keeper rate" higher and have more photos to post on Facebook for your buddies, but it is not a must.  Having said that, we are in the field and taking photographs of birds and they move.  In fact they move a lot even while perched.  So I find anything below  1/125 of a second is troublesome for subject blur from birds anyway.  All the image stabilization in the world won't help you if your subject is moving.  I did get some shots below 1/125 that were acceptable to me, but 1/80 was as low as I wanted to go.

The above image is an example of a shot at 1/80 of a second, tripod mounted with the IS engaged. I used fill flash also to help fill in the shadows.  Just because you have IS, don't throw away the rules of getting sharp images.  If a tripod works for you then use it.  If you can't use a tripod then rely on the IS only.
Compared to my Tamron 70-300 SP VC 
This is a tough comparison because we are not quite talking about apples and apples here.  The 70-300 is 100mm longer which means you would have to shoot it at 200mm to be fair and then you'd have to shoot under the exact same conditions, but even considering those obvious scenarios and the fact I have a great deal of experience with the Tamron lens, I feel like I can do a pretty good job comparing the two lenses.
The Tamron cost about $450.00 new and is quite sharp indeed for a lens in this price category.  Is it is sharp as the 70-200?  No, but it can hold its own for sure. Here is an image taken at 300mm by the Tamron at a similar distance.


Pretty sharp, isn't it?  Understand though that sharpness isn't everything but it does take you quite a ways down the road.  Sharpness aside, the build quality of the Canon is much better because it utilizes a metal construction, has weather sealing and the auto-focus is much faster.  Where the Tamron loses out completely is not having a fixed aperture of f4.  At 300mm the aperture of the Tamron is maxed at  f5.6 and that makes it hard to use at low light events like this one.  In the end the Canon gave me a much better keeper rate than the Tamron and that is something to think about.  
Conclusion
So the big questions after shooting with the lens is:  do I want to buy it and does it replace my Tamron?  I think long term the answer is probably yes to both questions.  As time progresses, I will eventually add longer zooms which forces the 70-300 into a secondary wildlife role.  Currently it is my workhorse lens for everything wildlife.  When that times comes, then I will probably take another look at the Canon 70-200, because it is smaller, lighter, sharper and has better construction, but I am in no hurry to make any purchase at this time.  The fact is, the Tamron remains a really nice lens that anyone should be happy owning and meets most of my needs.  That said, if you want a new lens to replace a lens you are not happy with or can afford to spend $1,200.00 on a new lens then I have no problem recommending the Canon EF 70-200 L.  It will not let you down in any scenarios where a 200mm lens is needed. I hope you found this informal review helpful.  Below are more images for purchase and a breakdown of the parameters for this field test.
Parameters for the Field Test
  • Camera Body:  Canon 7D (classic)
  • Lens:  Canon EF 70-200L f4 IS
  • Aperture: f4
  • Shutter Speeds: 1/60 to 1/800
  • Flash:  Neewer TT560 Manual flash for fill
  • Tripod:  Bogen 3221 with a 3030 head
  • Flash support:  Stroboframe 
  • Time of day:  8:00am to 11:30am EST
I have been shooting with the Canon 7D seriously for about three months now and I thought it would be a good time to offer some thoughts on the performance of this camera body in respect to primarily bird photography. In the last blog on the 7D I gave my initial impressions, but I wanted to take more time and explain the pros and cons of this camera in detail. The Canon 7D (classic) was originally launched in late 2009 and was replaced in 2014 by the Canon 7D Mark II. Packed with a ton of features for sports and wildlife, the Canon 7D was the flagship APS-C camera offered in Canon's DSLR lineup and remained in the place until the release of the Mark II. Among the features on the 7D are an 18 megapixel sensor, 19 cross type AF points and 8 frames per second continuous shooting. Canon's target market for this camera was professionals and advanced amateurs looking for "pro" features and the added reach provided by the APS-C sensor.
When I was searching for a lighter and higher megapixel camera to compliment my aging Canon 1D Mark II, this camera was at the top of my list. The purpose of this blog post is to examine overall quality, noise performance, auto-focus performance and image quality and finally cost/benefit analysis.


Overall Build Quality and Ergonomics
 Let me just say as with any higher end Canon product, this camera is rugged and ready for any outdoor adventure. It is weather sealed against dust and light rain, and is constructed from magnesium alloy. Coming from a 1 series body which are the most durable of all Canon bodies, I can say this camera is comparable, but perhaps not quite as rugged. My feeling is that the 7D will take a drop from backpack level and still be functional although I would not try this.  
 Additionally I like the button layout of this camera as well as the joystick on the back of the camera which is used for moving around the menu options and working in live view. This is the second camera I have owned with live view and I really like using this feature when in a blind photographing birds or shooting still life photographs. Sometimes, it is difficult to be at an angle to look through the viewfinder and the live view functionality makes it easy on my 41 year old neck. In live view I can also easily see my f-stop, shutter speed and histogram information thus allowing me greater flexibility in controlling exposure and previewing my image. The downside to using live view for birds on a perch is it reduces the continuous frames per second to 3 fps. It is adequate but barely. Below is an image taken with live view from a blind.


Noise and Image Quality
 The Canon 7D has been maligned across the internet for its poor image quality at higher ISO and I can verify that this camera could be better in the area of unwanted noise, but I want to look at this subject objectively and explain to you that it is manageable. 
  At ISO below 320 I would say that you have absolutely nothing to worry about. Shoot away with little thought beyond achieving a good exposure. However, above ISO 320 and you need to start thinking about how to maximize your exposure to help mitigate noise. The first way to keep the noise levels down is obvious but I will mention it anyway. Shoot with the lowest ISO possible for the situation and lighting. If you are shooting a photograph of a building on a tripod with no movement then why shoot at ISO 400. Instead change your ISO to 100 and adjust your shutter speed and f-stop accordingly. Next, if you must shoot at ISO 400, 800 or 1600 you should use a process called "exposing to the right (ETTR)." I am not going into great detail about this process here but essentially you are overexposing the image by up to one stop in most cases. Later, in post-production, you bring the exposure and highlights into normal ranges.  The important consideration when using ETTR is that you don't want to blow out the highlights. You want to overexpose enough to reduce noise but still maintain the highlights. This is where practice and experience comes into play.  For more information about ETTR, navigate to this site: http://digital-photography-school.com/exposing-to-the-right/ .  
 Overall, I would say the image quality is quite good and on par with my 1D Mark II. The advantage to the 7D over earlier cameras is it's ability to render backgrounds smoothly without banding. This creates a much smoother bokeh and in my opinion a much more pleasing image. 
Auto-Focus
 My thoughts on auto-focus will be brief, but hopefully will shed some light on the subject for you. Auto-focus on the 7D is quite advanced with 19 cross-type AF points from which to choose. These advanced points allow the camera to lock onto moving subjects much faster than other APS-C cameras in the past and is a big reason to buy this camera. Using the AF under normal usage such as stationary objects with my Canon 50mm 1.8 I found the auto-focus to lock on so quickly that I couldn't tell when the lens had focused. It is fast and accurate and no issues here. When using my Tamron 70-300 SP VC I found it to also lock on and focus quickly with stationary subjects. Note that live view is much slower to focus because it uses a different auto-focus technology that is not part of the SLR portion of the camera. Eventually I believe the live view focusing will catch up, but for now it is not very useful when photographing wildlife. When I use it from a blind I generally use pre-focusing techniques. In the field I was a bit disappointing in the auto-focus. I was able to get a few in focus shots of turkey vultures on a recent trip to pilot mountain but I didn't get anything good enough to post here. Hopefully I can return to this location in the future and provide some followup as to whether the problems I found were related to my lens or the body. To be fair, I am also comparing this to my 1D Mark II's auto-focus system which is very very good.
Cost/Benefit Analysis vs Canon 7D Mark II
If you are like me, you are constantly balancing cost of new equipment versus what benefit the added cost will do for you.  For me, I am always looking for cameras and lenses which are about 1 generation behind the current models.  The reason for this is because cameras are essentially computers and as such they depreciate quickly.  Currently the Canon 7D can be purchased used for about $600.00 US , but when it was introduced cost about $1,700.00 US.  In other words, buy used if you can because it will save you a ton of money and you still benefit from all the features of a modern DSLR.
It is true that the 7D Mark II has a few more bells and whistles but most "experts" are reporting only a marginal increase in image quality.  For me, I would rather put more money into glass than have a few more features on my body.  On the Mark II we pickup a couple more frames per second continuous shooting, more cross type sensors and the ability to auto-focus at f8 with the center point.  Additionally we get a duel card slot for backup.  The 7D (classic) can shoot at 8fps which is more than enough for action photography. Auto-focus is slightly behind the curve, but still very powerful.  If the Mark II had achieved remarkable increase in image quality I think more of an argument could be made to upgrade.
In conclusion, the 7D (classic) remains a great camera which will continue to provide great results for years to come.  For me it was a modest upgrade on image quality, but 18 megapixels gives me room to breathe on cropping and the live view gives me more options when photographing from a blind. I picked up more of a crop on my images so using a tele-converter is no longer necessary. The benefits from upgrading from my Canon 1D Mark II was well worth it.  If you are looking for a camera with a crop sensor for wildlife I feel I can recommend the Canon 7D.
As 2014 is drawing to a close it is once again time for me to select my top ten images of the year. This exercise has become an important part of my photographic tradition and process as it helps me to see where I have been over the last year and how much, if any, I have progressed. This year has given me several fun and interesting opportunities to photograph birds and that will be reflected heavily in my selected images.  Once I considered myself more interested in landscape photography but now I am moving quickly into becoming a wildlife photographer.  The beauty that God has placed into these creatures is beyond amazing and I love to capture that beauty whenever possible.
#1 - Great Horned Owl in Flight.  If you have followed me at all you have seen this image plastered all over my social media and public web site.  I love this image because it represents first, my favorite raptor species and second because it is in a wooded environment in flight as it normally would be seen in the wild.  The out of focus feathers in the foreground and background help to emphasize motion and speed.


#2 - Cardinal in Golden Light.  Late afternoon light is my favorite type of lighting for almost any natural subject.  Here, a male northern cardinal faces the golden western light pouring in just before the sun falls below the tree line.

#3 - Tribute.  Perhaps this image is tied too much into my own sentimentality of the great memories of going fishing with my grandfather and brother, but I do find this an interesting departure from my normal subjects.  I went black and white with a touch of sepia in the final image.


#4 - Eagle in Quarter Pose.  This eagle decided to give me a bit of a show so I took full advantage of it.  She has a very intimidating and proud look which is accented by her wings spread out just as one would expect to see on the back of the US quarter or as seen in ancient Roman culture.  It is no wonder so many cultures use the eagle as a symbol of strength and courage.

#5 - Pine Forest.  This is a photo that appeals to me at both an artistic level and as a symbol of North Carolina, my current home.  At an artistic level, I love the symmetry of the pine trees and the converging lines which they create.  In the distance the converging trees disappear into early morning fog giving the scene a sense of mystery.  On the practical or historic side of the equation, these trees reflect the nature of the forests throughout North Carolina which are in some areas completely covered with various pine trees.

#6 - Indigo Bunting.  The bunting makes number six in my list not because it is an awesome composition or that I performed some amazing work of photography, but because of the mind numbing beauty of this species.  What an amazing work of God to produce such an stunning, iridescent bird. In fact this bird has no blue pigment in its feathers but when the sun strikes the feathers it reflects blue due to iridescent qualities in the feathers themselves.  Note how quickly the shadow falls to black on the shadow side of the bird because the single light source shining in at such an acute angle cannot produce the same level of iridescence in the feathers.

#7 - Titmouse in the Snow.  The gregarious titmouse is one of my favorite songbirds and here it is shown perched in a  rare North Carolina snow "storm."


#8 - Mississippi Kite.  This images appeals to me because this raptor appears almost ghost like as the sun pours through its open wings.  I used fill flash to compensate for the loss of light on the side of the bird facing the camera.


#9 - Short Eared Owl.  This image was taken as part of a fund raising event at a local raptor rehabilitation center, but I like it first because it has an almost studio like portrait feeling which is not often attained shooting wildlife and secondly because it is a species that would be impossible for me to photograph in North Carolina.  The cattails lend to the notion that this bird is a ground species of owl.


#10 - Chilean Flamingo.  It was a tough call to make between this image and the red-bellied woodpecker but in the end it came down to liking the flamingo based on art rather than color.  Although the flamingo is a very colorful bird I like this image first because the neck of this bird forms an almost perfect "S" shape and second because of the eye peaking out behind it's fluffed out feathers.


Well, that's it for 2014 and I enjoyed it to the fullest!  Thanks to my family and for putting up with my at times obsessive hobby.  Keeping photography balanced with my relationship with God and family remains a challenge and I will continue to improve that balance within the coming year.   There is more to come in 2015, Lord willing and the creek don't rise.  Have a happy new year!
This month Canon unveiled it's latest iteration of the 7D called the 7D Mark II and it is making quite a splash in the photography community. Many photographers, dreaming of the latest gear, will rush out and purchase the 7D Mark II and sell their existing gear to KEH or online at auctions sites such as Ebay. This will cause a sudden flood of used 7Ds into the market space and begin driving prices down. For those of you who work on a budget when it comes to buying camera gear, now is a good time to look at the Canon 7D on the used market and some deals which exist for current 7D inventory on the new market.
I purchased my used 7D from KEH, Inc., located in Smyrna, Georgia, USA and highly recommend them as an excellent source of used gear. This camera augments and replaces in some respects my Canon 1D Mark II which is still and excellent camera and will serve as a backup for the next several years.  The tests I conducted in this review are my personal feelings about the camera in the field and do not use any scientific charting and testing.  There is plenty of that material already available on the internet and would serve no purpose for me to simply reiterate what has already been said.  Primarily I am a bird photographer, although I do enjoy other nature photography as well and so this review will reflect that interest. 
Before setting up for the shoot I wanted to get the overall feel for the camera body.  I found it to be of solid construction and would fit well in most anyone's hand.  It is made of a magnesium alloy wrapped in rubberized like material and seems very well built.  The button placement is ergonomic and comfortable, but I did find that some of the buttons need to be tapped more than one time for them to work properly.  This might be the camera's age, but I thought I would pass it along anyway.  The viewfinder is bright and uses a  modern LCD technology to actually "paint" the focusing points and grid-lines onto the viewfinder.  That's right, I said "grid-lines."  There is simply no need to go out and buy additional focusing screens in order to view the grid-lines.  That was the first bonus I noticed.  
I continued my shoot by attaching the camera body to my faithful Bogen/Manfratto 3221 tripod and mounted my trusty Tamron 70-300 SP VC lens to the body.  This combo was sitting in my blind which is no more than 8 feet from the perch I use when photographing small songbirds. The morning of the shoot was cool and partly cloudy, but rays of light, at times which illuminated the birds at random times.  My exposures were generally around a 1/200 shutter speed, 5.6 aperture, and ISO 400/640.  I had attached a remote release to my camera and set the motor drive on high.  The 7D is capable of about 7 to 8 FPS with raw files and I found this to be a real plus here to get bursts of images with the birds in various positions.
 I was able to shoot several species of birds on this morning, and at the end of this article you can see two which I think turned out fairly well.  My biggest concern on my first shoot with this camera was determining how the noise held up when using 640 and 800 ISO settings since my Canon Rebel T3i had such disparaging results.  All I can say is DO NOT listen to those online that claim this is the same sensor as the Rebel series made during this time.  This statement is simply not true and Canon is on record saying it is not the same sensor.  This camera does produce noise but it is very manageable by simply overexposing by 1/2 stop and using a bit of noise reduction in Light Room.  Furthermore, the noise seems to have a very tight pattern and very similar in most respects to my 1D Mark II if not better.  Is it going to be noise free at 1000 and 1600 ISO?  No, of course not, but It is manageable and very doable to shoot at 1600 ISO by shooting to the right(overexposing).  With this sensor, under no circumstances should you underexpose your image.  It does not have the latitude to push in post without noise issues.  Know this camera and understand how it can best best be used and you will be fine.
This first test did not go into auto-focus but perhaps I will do a followup post on how it handles in the field with birds in flight.  I want to finish up with a couple additional features I liked. One I found to be useful was a dedicated "auto-focus on" button (back focus button) which can be configured to do all the focusing and disconnect focus functionality from the shutter button. On my 1D Mark II I had to configure another button do to this duty. Next, live view is a dream to use but I did find that the battery life  was quite short so I will need to buy a second battery soon for live view work.  I like to use the live view feature when I am photographing skittish birds like woodpeckers.  I can completely cover up the camera and myself and use live view as my eyes. Finally, I liked the micro-adjust for lenses which have back focus or front focus issues, but I have not tested this yet.  
I hope you found this post useful and watch for future posts on equipment, wildlife and my photography in the future.


You are setup in a place where the wildlife is very close and moving at high speed. You have very little time to react, so you pick up the camera and try to use your focusing points to get a good focus lock on the subject and begin to fire away. In only a moment's time the subject is in your frame and gone. With great anticipation you scroll through the series of photographs on your camera's display only to find that none are in focus. What happened? You have the best camera made and yet none of the shots are in focus. The answer is that cameras simply cannot lock and follow a subject that is that close to your camera and moving at such a great speed. Had the subject been farther away your camera would have had time to lock and use predictive focus. So how can you handle this situation?  How can you take home the winning shot?
Many new photographers may look at me with a very blank look when I use the term "zone focusing."  Zone focusing is simply pre-focusing your camera in a spot on the ground where the subject will eventually move through the scene.  There are times where there are too many distractions or the subject is too close for your auto-focus system to lock onto the subject or lock onto the right subject.  It may try to find a lock on a tree or the ground before it locks onto the fast moving subject.  No matter how advanced your camera's auto-focus system is there are times where you must use zone focusing.  So how exactly do you zone focus?

There are two ways to pre-focus your camera, but only one will work with any camera.  The first is used for cameras which do not have a button dedicated to focus or are manual focus cameras.  First, you should switch your lens to use manual focus.   After switching to manual focus, find a spot on the ground within the path the animal or person will be moving. Now change your camera's drive to use as many frames per second as it can handle.  My Canon 1 Series can shoot at over 8 fps which makes it ideal for zone focusing, but any camera can capture the action even cameras as low as 3fps. Next, as the subject moves into the the spot or zone you have focused on,  hold down the shutter button and let the camera fire off as many frames as it can.  Release the shutter button as soon as the subject is past the area where you focused.  That's pretty much all there is to it.  Some of it is just a matter of luck based on the speed of the subject and how many frames per second you can fire off.  Hopefully this will help those who are struggling with photographing a subject in difficult auto-focus conditions and for those still using manual lenses this is about the only good way to capture action in my opinion.  This technique does take some practice to know just how far out to focus based on the distance and size of your subject but it can be mastered quite easily.


This great horned owl was captured using zone focusing. He was  simply too close to accurately track using even a modern Canon 1 Series camera.